Rio de Janeiro - final destination

I can´t even begin to describe how much I LOVE Rio de Janeiro!!!!!!!! I felt like I was living a dream or part of a movie set whilst I was there. After our drama in Ilha Grande we wanted to escape the island and constant rain and head for a cidade maravilhosa. We dumped our bags in the hostal and headed straright to Copacabana beach. Just incredible! Everday we went to Ipanema beach which included watching two beautiful sunsets. We partied every night and met some really lovely people. Obviously the trip to the Cristo had to be done and boy did it provide some views!

The trip has given me the best 3 months of my life...I´ve seen so many different things - from landscapes that are out of this world including beaches that make you feel you are in paradise, to places that make you feel you are on another planet. I´ve also seen things that have changed my perspective in many ways - unimaginable poverty where you honestly question why we are not doing more in this world to help and also some of the most humble people imaginable. People that don´t have anything but try to give you everything.
I don´t know which would be my favourite part of the trip but the orphanage was definitly a great start and the children from Cusco will stay in my heart forever. And, Rio, well I´m already planning my return....

The Military Rescue

So on the same day as the not so brilliant walk came an even more entertaining night...
We were back at the hostal after showering and decided to have a bit of relax time as the rain was falling yet again. It wasn´t long before there was a power cut and once again we were sat round in candlelight, unfortunatly minus the caipirinhas. After an hour or so the rain started to pour really quite heavily which concerned the majority of us that had not had dinner and did not want to go outside. We continued to play cards by candlelight when we suddenly looked down and realised that water had started to come into the house as it had risen so much outside. At first it was quite funny that it had risen enoughto enter into the house but as it started to rise more and more we realised that it may end up causing a few problems. As a few other girls and I had a room on the ground floor we went and moved our stuff off the floor and onto the first bed thinking that that would be sufficient...how wrong we were.
As the water continued to rise and the rain didn´t look like it was going to stop anytime soon I became a little bit concerned over the owner´s very relaxed attitute towards the electricity which had come back on, but in my eyes needed to be switched off asap before the water reached the plug sockets. I also started to worry that maybe we needed to move our stuff onto the top bunk as the water was rising quite quickly.
We were all sat in the breakfast room on top of the tables watching the owner praying to the rain to stop but also, at the same time still keeping very calm and saying it would stop in 5 mins. By this point the rain was at our knees and Irene and I thought it would just be easier to take our stuff onto the second floor into another room in case the bunk beds floated and our stuff fell off. We decided to stay on the second floor instead of getting wet again when we would have to move out of the breakfast room if the water got any higher. There was a big group of us upstairs with torches, mattresses, towels and pillows so we knew we would be comfy for the night. Unfortunately we only had 2 apples and a few slices of bread so most of us were hoping the rain would stop in order to go and get dinner but we had heard that the water was as high in the street outside. One guy got so hungry he decided to go out and we were quite worried that it was not a good idea that he was going alone.
After a few hours of being upstairs on the second floor and the rain still pouring, we suddenly heard somebody coming up the stairs shouting to us. It was a soldier who started asking me how many people there were upstairs. I originally thought he was just checking we were all ok and checking out the situation etc. until suddenly he started shouting to us "vamos, vamos embora." At this point I realised that maybe the situation was a little more serious then I had first thought, especially when he started to shout that the river next to the hostal had risen and the bridge that we had to use to get onto the other side was going to break. Well the way this soldier was shouting at us did not instill any calm whatsoever and just made us all panic like crazy.
We walked down the stairs and when we got to the bottom the water was now waist deep. We had to walk in a line in the dark with a few torches to guide us and people shouting out if there was a table floating or a step to go up. We got to the front of the hostal and we could see the army on the other side and that is when I started to freak out a bit. It literally was like a scene from a movie - stood there in the pouring rain, holding all our possessions, water up to our waist with people shouting and trying to work out how they were going to rescue us. They started to get a rope and a harness together which is when I thought that there was no way they would let us cross with all our backpacks (I at this point in tru Claire style was carrying 3). We were all wondering what the hell was taking so long as they were clearly panicking alot and we could see the water gushing over the bridge. At one point they told us we would have to go and leave the backpacks and I honestly felt like crying. I couldn´t bare to lose everything, especially not my camera! Luckily they clearly realised that it would be impossible and completely stupid for us to all head back inside and dump the bags. Eventually they got a rope and one by one we had to walk along the bridge holding the rope and grabbing the soldier´s hands. Oh my God, it was terrifying. I don´t think I have ever been so scared in my life. Also, I was thinking well if this is what it is like here, what the hell is the rest of the isalnd going to be like.
Well, much to my surprise once we had all gotten over the bridge and checked that we were all ok, we looked around and realised that the streets were fine. The soldiers escorted us to a bit of shelter wehere at first they were saying that we could sleep in their barracks but then we were offered room in a hostel. We decided to pick another hostal where there was a bit more room so the soldiers kindly took us there and checked we were all ok.
I literally can´t believe how dramatic the night was and on top of it that we clearly had picked the worst hostal in the world to stay in during a tropical storm. No where else had been effected quite like us!
The next day we went to the hostal to try and get some things that we had left..I currently didn´t have any shoes as I had left them there in the rush. The owner was in the garden trying to brush the mud and water from the entrance of the place. I was thinking what a mess it all was until I looked inside and realised it was just the same as outside. Such a shame. The place is ankle deep in mud, wood, branches and water. They said they will get it fixed by xmas but that day obviously we were eager to get off the island and when we were on the boat the guy said that it would rain again heavily today, so who knows how long it will take for them to recover....

Ilha Grande

Keeping up with the typical tourist trail in Brazil we went next to a small island ironically called Ilha Grande. This place is known for it´s beautiful beaches and surrounding nature. We stayed in a lovely hostal run by a really nice woman who for a cheap price made homeade meals for everyone at dinner time. The first night there we had some much missed homeade food and then headed out to find a bar for a caipirinha to celebrate our new destination. We had just got there and were realaxing in some deck chairs with our feet in the sand when suddenly the rain started to fall. We quickly dived for cover in the beach bar. It wasn´t long before there was a power cut but it really was like one of those typical traveller´s tales of paradise....stuck in a bar, forced to drink caipirinhas sat in the candlelight. It was the best power cut I have ever experinced.

Unfortunately a few days later we were also caught up in another storm which didn´t have quite the same calming affect!
During the day as it was raining and there wasn´t a lot to do we thought we might as well take the opportunity to do another hike aorund the island as it wasn´t so hot. Well I had been told that it was more or less flat and could be done in flip flops, unlike the day before which had been very rocky and I had done in my walking boots. Whilst it started off easily enough my God by the end I just wanted to turn back. It was up and down hill constantly and because I only had my flip flops on and it was all muddy, I literaly could not get up the slopes. I nearly gave up at one point and turned back but part of me was kind of worried that I would probably break my ankle on the way back and be stuck alone.
So we carried on and after a few hours finally got to the waterfall. I would love to say it was amazing but unfortunately it wasn´t. Half the group didn´t even want to swim beacuse the water didnt look that clean. I however, decided I had not done the worst walk of my life to not at least have a swim.
As predicted the walk back - downhill, was even harder than climbing up. Thankfully I found a huge stick which helped me as everybody kept falling down. I thought I would do ok with my stick but lo and behold I managed to fall down right at the point when I was being filmed. I´m told it will be put on youtube...
Managed to make it back in one piece although one girl had a huge bruise from falling.

Brazil

Started off in Brazil in a place called Florianopolis...also known to me as paradise. The place was beautiful. The first two nights we added a bit of luxury to our stay and spent the night in an Ibis hotel as it turned out to be the same price as a hostal. Do not be mistaken - that is not because the hotel was cheap, the hostals are stupidly expensive in this place. Whilst we were in the city we felt it necessary to keep up the tradition of finding a good restaurant and stuffing our faces so we went to a rodizio which is where you sit there and they bring round every type of meat imagainable and carve it onto your plate until you decide to put up the red sign of "nao obrigada" which means you´ve had enough. Delicious!
The next day we headed more into the Island and it really is a beautiful place, the prices however, wern´t. We went to check out a recommended backpacker´s hostal and a room in a crappy dorm with 10 people was going to cost more than our lovely luxury room at the hotel. We couldn´t believe it. Although they gave us a free caipirinha to try and convince us we didn´t back down and went to find other accomodation. We managed to find these really cute cabin / chalet type houses which was our home for the next few days.
As the island has quite a lot to offer and we only had a few days we decided to rent a car for two days. We went to some picture perfect beaches and also tried the typical dish of Moqueca which was another belly buster that consisted of fish and seafood in a coconut sauce with rice and flour and fish sauce on the side.

From Florianopolis I left Miriam to relax on the beach whilst I took a little detour to the Iguazu waterfalls. Well I don´t even know how to describe them...amazing...breathtaking...all these words more or less sum them up. The first day I went to the Brazilian side which is a panormic view. As you start approaching you can hear the roar of the water before you see them which builds up the anticipation of what they will be like. The Brazilian side only takes a few hours to do so from there I headed over to the Argentinian side to find accomodation and rest after such a long bus journey.
The next day bright and early I headed to the Argentinian side of the waterfalls. This side is different to the Brazilian as supposedly in Brazil you see them and in Argentina you feel them. Well I sure did feel them as I took a boat ride which drove me directly underneath one of the falls! The water was so strong that I could hardly open my eyes so unfortuantely there is no photo evidence of this trip. The end of the trip was a train ride to the Garganta del Diablo which was hugeeee. The sound and the sights are unbelievable.
After spending the day there it was on to meet Miriam at the half way point of both our journeys - Sao Paulo. It was an awful bus journey which consisted of being on a normal bus therefore no reclining chair for 18hours (it took longer than it should have done). At one point a woman was asking everybody for money and I didn´t quite understand why. I asked the woman next to me who told me it was because they wanted the money to bribe the police as they were taking more weight and goods underneath then they should have been....welcome to Brazil!

After the grueling bus journey I assumed Miriam would have left without me but luckily we found each other at the bus station and could go to Paraty together. This place was a lovely small ex colonial town that is now a UNESCO sight becauase of it´s history, style and cute cobbled streets. There are 3 churches from colonial times which were for 1. white people, 2. los mulatoes and the 3rd church for black slaves.
On Sunday we decided to take the bus and go to a nearby beach which I can only describe as being like a scene from Lost...I felt like I was on a desert Island. Surrounded by green trees in the background with this beautiful sandy beach in front of me. Bliss.

Extra destination - Uruguay

So I had a fully packed few days in Buenos Aires. Not only did I do the skydive but I also went to see a tango show (it had to be done in BA), a city tour and the markets in San Telmo. Miriam and I also went and stuffed our faces at La Cabrera, a well known restaurant with tourists and Argentinians. It is without a doubt the best steak I have ever tried - kobe beef at a fraction of the price it would cost in England. My mouth is watering just thinking of the huge steaks we had and all the accompaniments that came with it. I also decided during my stay to do a graffiti tour. I thought it would be a bit different to the usual tourist trap tours and I was right. We started on the other side of town and were taken to see lots of examples of street art, which in BA is not illegal. We were told all about the aritists and the crews who paint all the work so it was quite an interesting and unique trip in the end.

Although I hadn´t originally intended to go to Uruguay, a good friend who I used to work with in Madrid has just moved back there so I just couldn´t miss the opportunity for free accomodation and a native showing me round. I started off in Montevideo which was a slightly dissapointing city after BA. It didn´t really have a lot to offer as a city but I was mainly there to see Pati so it didn´t really matter.
After a few days chilling out in Montevideo we went to Punta del Este. That is clearly where the money is at! Lots of high rise, expensive flats with posh restaurants and designer shops all over - not really the kind of place a backpacker like myself can afford but luckily Pati had a flat there. The best thing there was the lovely sandy beaches. The beach part of the trip has definitly begun now! One day we rented bikes and rode all along the coast stopping for a picnic and a sunbathe on the beach and a trip to the port where the fishermen were feeding the humongous sealions.

From Punta del Este I left Pati and went to meet Miriam in Punta del Diablo. This place is a world away from the ritzy Punta del Este. It was a lovely little town full of beach huts and fishing boats. So relaxing and chilled out with huge sandy beaches that were practically desserted. I am also glad that I got to see it in low season as apparently in a few more weeks it will be packed for the summer holidays. I think lots of people there will spoil the place because its charm is the fact that it was so chilled out and quiet. Definitly one of my favourite stops of the journey even if it was only for a few days.

After our few days relaxing there we started the long journey to Florianopolis, Brazil. To get there however, involves crossing the border at a town called Chuy. As our bus wasn´t going to be till the evening we decided to spend a few hours in this place because we heard there was really cheap shopping to be done. Unfortunately when we got there and actually started the shopping it wasn´t quite as cheap as we thought - electrical items and perfume are all the same prices at home. What was cheap though was alcohol so I thought I would give a helping hand to the economy and invested in a bottle of bombay gin which was a bargainous 6 dollars. Not bad eh?
The strange thing about this town, apart from the fact that other than these duty free shops for tourists it has literally nothing else to offer, is the fact that there is a main road that runs through the centre and it is literally a case of on one side of the road you are in Uruguay and everybody is speaking in Spanish, yet if you cross the road you are officially in Brazil and everyone is talking in Portuguese!

Skydive in Buenos Aires!

What a crazy day!!!!!

So off I went at 7 in the morning to the pick up point. In typical Argentine style in stead of turning up at the agreed time of 8am they casually rolled up at 9.10 to pick me up. We went an hour away from the city where I was given a talk that probabaly lasted only 5 mins and then it was time to jump!

I hadn´t felt nervous at all as I was more excited than anything. Got kitted out and then headed up in the plane 3000 mtrs above the candyfloss clouds. Again, I didn´t feel nervous at all and was just taking in the view however, normally a door opening on a plane is generally asociated with danger so kinda hard to relax when he did that! haha.

At first it´s freefall which was unbelievable. Such an adrenaline rush. Then once the parachute is opened it was just relaxing...I felt like a bird! As soon as it was over I just wanted to get back up there. I have photos and a dvd which no doubt I will bore you all with when I am how. Next time I want to go higher....

Chile - why not?

Although the original plan wasn´t to go to Chile, given that it was only an 8hr bus ride from Mendoza we thought why not!? We started in Valparaíso which I loved! It has a really good vibe to it with lots of colourful houses and grafitti, art work or something quirky on every street. Whilst I was there I even managed to see a familiar face as Roberto´s cousin who I have met a few times now lives out there so we went out for dinner and I got to meet his now Chilean wife. We stayed in probably the nicest accomodation of my trip. We found it by chance and it was a lovely big house that she had converted into a small hostal, with big bright rooms and for once - fresh bread served in the morning instead of the usual stale croissant. (I have learnt to apreciate small things!)

We spent a few days in Valpo, walking up and down the many hills, and enjoying the sea views and then took the short bus ride to Santiago. I wasn´t overly impressed with Santiago I have to say. Once again it was a city that had quite a European style to it. We were staying in a bohemiam barrio which had a good vibe to it and great place to go and have a few cervezas but other than that and the cerros which we climbed there wasn´t much else to see .

because you know...it´s a hard life sometimes

Life as a backpacker can really take its toll. You know how it is; travelling from place to place, overeating, sightseeing - it can all be a bit tiring sometimes. That´s why we decided to book a relaxing day at a spa. After being picked up from our hostel we were taken to a lovely spot in the mountains of Mendoza. We spent the whole day in and out of thermal pools looking at the scenery and the river. After a few hours of jacuzzis and mud baths we headed for lunch (obviously the most important part of the day for me). There awaited a buffet lunch with steaks, chicken, lots of meat all argentinian style and god knows how many other things....delicious! After stuffing ourselves silly we booked in for a massage and then back to the outdoor pools. Ahh it´s a hard life.

vino, vino... y mas vino

From Cafayate we went to Cordoba which I have to say I was a little dissapointed with. Not much to offer really, just another big city so we left and headed to Mendoza after a few days. Mendoza was nice enough and obvioulsy we couldn´t leave without doing the main excursion here....going to the wine bodegas by bike.

We went to get the bikes at 10.30am and straight away we were offered some vino tinto. After two glasses we started the bike tour...started as we meant to go on. haha. First stop was the chocolate and liquor factory. For 15 pesos ( 3 pounds) we got to try bread, olive oil, jams and most importantly 2 shots of one of the most delicious chocolate liquors I have ever had (so i bought a bottle of it) and some chocolate. Not a bad start. Then we cycled to a wine museum. It was quite funny watching everyone pretend that they were actually interested in the musesum - clearly everybody just wanted their free glass of vino.
The trip pretty much continued in the same way with a stop for lunch (can´t be drinking on an empty stomach now) and then the 12km back to the bike shop where we were given even more wine. Not a bad day!

Cafayate - a casual 48km bike trip

After the amazing 3 days in Uyuni and then a few days chilling in hammocks in San Pedro de Atacama (Chile) we headed for Argentina. Starting point was Salta. Upon arrival we headed straight for the nearest steak house and I have to say it didn´t dissapoint. We did however find a place a few days later which was incredible! The best steak I have ever had without a doubt. Salta was ok, but to be honest it didn´t really feel any different to Europe - I could have quite easily been sat in a plaza in Spain.
Miles away from the colourful outfits of the indigenous on the streets of Peru and Bolivia.

From Salta we decided to go into the countryside so went to a small place called Cafayate (maybe you have had wine from there). We hired bikes and took the early morning bus to La garganta del diablo. From there we did the 48km bikeride back to Cafayate passing by some of the most incredible canyons and scenery. I had originally thought that I would only be able to do about 10km and then would have to get the bus back, but with scenery like that it was worth every minute.

Salar de Uyuni

This trip was by far the best thing I have done since being here! Worth every penny. For 3 days we went cruising through deserts and mountains seing the most amazing scenery of my life.
The first day consisted of going to the train cemetary where there are dissused trains. A kind of strange place, like something from a film set. Then we headed to the salt flats - a salt desert. Obviously we spent a good while taking photos and doing lots of silly poses, as you can see from the photos. We were taken to see a hotel made of salt and then to la isla del pescado. I can´t even describe the scenery there - beautiful. After lunch, cooked by our driver Javier we went to various lagunas and then to our accomdation for the night - a salt hotel, where everything from the tables to the beds was made of salt. That night we saw the most amazing moon. We all just sat outside in the cold in silence, each one lost in thoughts, perdido en sus sueños, taking in this incredible view.

The next day we were woken early to start the trip to more lagunas and to this place with lots of rock formations including el arbol de piedra - the stone tree. Pretty impressive I have to say. We then headed for "el refugio", which pretty much means basic accomodation, i.e no running water or central heating. Now I had heard that the second night was the worst as it´s sooo cold. I was wrapped up like an onion I had that many layers on. I had also decided that it would be a good idea to take a little bottle of whisky, you know, for the cold. We dumped our stuff and went for a walk around the laguna colorada, which is a laguna that looks red. I took the whisky with me so we all had a little toast to Pachamama. It´s easy to see why people in Peru and Bolivia believe in Pachamama with natural beauty like we saw. As the night went on the temperatures dropped alot and I didn´t even get changed to go to bed coz it was just too cold. I could never do this trip in winter because it must be unbearable.

The following morning arrived with a 4.30am wake up call and my god it was cold! I couldn´t feel my feet for half of the morning. We travelled an hour or so to the geysers. It was like being on another planet. Luckily the hot steam being projected warmed my feet up slightly. We were then taken to aguas termales but I wasn´t brave enough to go in. I was so cold that the last thing I wanted to do was take my clothes off and be in my bikini. A few of my friends braved it though. After breakfast surrounded by moutains and a volcano we were taken to the end of our trip....onwards to Chile!

Potosí - mine trip

So today we went to the mines in Potosí...what a trip! First of all we were taken to get kitted out - think fireman Sam gone wrong. Then off we plodded to the Miner´s Market to buy gifts for the miners. Here we casually spent 30 bolivianos on soda, coca leaves and...dynamite. Like you do.
After that we headed up to see the various mineral plantations and from there on to the real adventure. I was feeling quite apprehensive about the trip because I had heard various stories about if you get claustrophobic then it´s not the kind of trip you should do. Now I´m not someone who feels like that but it made me panic a bit knowing that getting out of the mine would be such a problem if I did feel uncomfrotable. Obviously adding to this was the whole Chiliean miners story -just to make me feel that bit more at ease.
We started walking into the mines and it was so far so good . We saw miners at work - some work for 24 hours when they do a double shift. Just incredible how they can work in such conditions. Most of them don´t wear masks so after years of working there (some boys start at the age of 15) they often have problems with their lungs. Also the constant bending to get around and pulling the carts with all the rocks in must really take it´s toll on their backs as well.
There were various points during the trip that we had to literally scramble on our hands and knees to get through holes. I was so out of breath afterwards (not from being unfit! - altitude I´ll have you all know - this is the highest city in the world after all). I had got a bandana to put around my mouth and nose to not breath in all the dust (and potential asbestos) but this did not help the breathing situation at all, in fact it just made it worse. There was a moment where I had to calm myself down because I thought I was going to go into panic mode. It all worked out ok though.
We got to one point where there was a "Tio" God/Devil. They worship the "Tio" in the mines, like the devil, because they are underground, and God is for over ground. There were offerings to him which mainly included cigarettes and alcohol. We then all had a swig of the alcohol that the miners drink - just a standard 95%. Obviously in England this would be used to clean wounds but here it´s to have a good time - a bottle costs just 10 bolivians (1 pound).
After two or so hours walking / ducking / climbing / crawling around the mines the "light at the end of the tunnel" so to speak, was in sight. Then came another health and safety carefree activity - dynamite explosions! The guide showed us how to make a bomb (in under a minute) with the dynamite. He then proceeded to light the dynamite and pass it round all of us and take photos. Obviously this had to be done rather quickly as we had previously been told there was only a mintue per metre of fuse. It bought a whole new meaning to the word hot potato the way people were passing it along. haha. The guide then ran very quickly down the hill and back up again and then... BOOM.

I love Sucre

So after a few days in La Paz and then a grueling 10 hour bus journey from Cochabamba I arrived at the lovely Sucre. Whitewashed buildings, lovely plazas and a great climate - perfecto. On the first day here I bumped into a German girl that I had met previously so we then spent all day walking around and exploring Sucre and have spent pretty much all our time together.

The next day we went to an artesania shop where I bought a magazine for children who work in the street - think Big Issue for kids. We were in the Plaza having a juice and a read of the magazine when I read that they needed volunteers. I asked one (of the many) kids selling the magazine to take me to the person in charge so I could find out a bit more about the magazine etc.
So off I went to talk with Cesar, a volunteer that brings the magazine to the children. The way it works is that half the money goes to the kid who sells the magazine and half goes towards making more magazines. After a quick chat he asked if I would like to help...so I did. I basically had to go round with a kid and talk the tourists into buying a magazine. I mean it costs nothing but obviously most people sitting in the plaza had been plagued by the many kids selling the magazine so some were really not happy. Soon enough we sold what we needed to though.
After selling the magazines the kids were going to a comedor - a soup kitchen for poor children aged 2 - 14. Cesar invited me to go and help out there as well so again, off I trotted... and I´m so glad I did.
Most of the people helping out were Bolivian university students who go 5 times a week and help out there. Around 150 kids go during the week but this increases on a Saturday. There´s a doctor on hand and if they want they can get a shower there. After we finished and all the kids had gone I had lunch with the rest of the volunteers and they were all so friendly. In fact afterwards they were having a baby shower for one of the women so they invited me to go to their house and party. In the bus ride we were chatting with this random guy who made artesania who gave Cesar and I free rings, so all in all it was a lucky day.

On Sunday I had planned to go and visit a market but said I would help sell the magazine again. I turned up (after 3 hours sleep after getting in at 6 from a club!) to find that no magazine had been published and they wern´t going to be selling that day. The kids, however, had turned up so I spent an hour or so with them just chatting. I let them take pictures on my camera and they absolutely loved it, running around the plaza snapping away.

My plan was to leave on Monday but after meeting such lovely people at the soup kitchen (and other travellers) I said I would go again and help out on Monday. The plan is to do the last day tomorrow - Wednesday, but who knows if I will stay longer....Sucre is one of those places you could stay for a very long time.

Boliva begins - Isla del sol

After our night on Uros island we headed over to Taquile island which turned out to be very dissapointing. After literally a walk up to the plaza, lunch and a walk over the other side we headed back to Puno (yes that really is what that island trip consisted of!). I stayed the night there and Ceri headed back to the orphanage. I had a real dilemma as to whether I should just go back to the orphanage with her as I really missed the kids already. Obviously I decided to carry on with the Gringo trail and crossed over the Bolivian border to Copacabana. I met an Australian woman on the bus so we decided to share a hostal together and head to the islands the next day together as well.
After a night spent in a power cut we got the long boat to La Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca the next day. Most tourists stop at the south part so we wanted to go to the north. We managed to share a boat with what turned out to be a lovely group of people - a really nice German guy and one of the nicest families I have ever met, from Arequipa, Peru.
We all went to the same eco accomodation - very rustic and then all did the walk up to the ruins together and it was just incredible. We got there just before sun set. It really was beautiful and possibly one of my favourite moments of the trip.

Night on a floating island in a straw hut!

So once again I have been a bit lazy on the old blogs and I have so much to write!!

After leaving the orphanage Ceri (another volunteer) and I headed south to Puno. We arrived at 5 in the morning and went straight to the hostal to get a few hours kip. We woke up bright and early and after grabing some food went down to the port of Lake Titicaca (Peru side) to sort out going to las islas flotantes - the floating islands. We had originally wanted to stay on the island of Taquille but we were told that this wouldn´t be possible so would have to stay on Uros. I have to say I didn´t really know what to expect and when we got to Uros and I saw all these straw huts I was thinking what have I let myself in for. Hahaha. We stopped there for a bit and we were told all about the islanders and how they have no help from the government. They live through tourism and are pretty cut off from the outside world apart from the tourists and the odd trip to the main island for certain foods.
After the talk we were then sung to which was very weird. I didn´t like this as it was clearly for the tourists and also...they were terrible at singing! They did a song in quechua, then a song in English which just so happened to be Row row row your boat. It was so funny. Me and Ceri were trying not to laugh but it was so hard not to.
We then took our straw mercedes benz over to the other part of Uros which would be our home for the night. Here there was a restaurant, a bar and our "hotel". I´d just like to point out that this was all made of straw on an island that´s only 11 metres deep. We were shown our accomodation which was a hut with two mattreses inside. Then we spent the rest of the afternoon just chatting and relaxing and watching the sun set over Puno in the distance. We asked if it was ok to go for a walk and the girl looked a bit puzzled but said yes. We started walking and soon realised that the island we were on was literally a few metres long! There was nowhere to walk to!
We had a lovely dinner but I was a bit dissapointed that it wasn´t with the family. After sunset it was a case of using the torch to get around as there was no light which was funny when trying to go to the outside, and very basic toilet! It was still quite early but we were shattered from all the travelling so did a bit of reading by candlelight from under the several blankets as it was so cold, and then bed.

the end of Cusco

So after many complaints that I have not written I decided I should write another post before I lose my audience! haha.
Where to begin since I last wrote.....

So last week a few others from the orphanage and I did white water rafting. It was wicked! We drove two hours away from Cusco to the mountains and the scenery was just incredible. We were given (rather tight) wetsuits, a lesson and then off along the river. It was so much fun but bloody cold. We got told we could have a swim after quite a while of rafting so I assumed that meant it was the end of the trip. The water was freezingggggg! Unfortunately it wasn´t the end of the trip and we still had another 40mins of rafting to do so my hands and feel were so cold. I was also having a go at the front of the raft so jsut kept getting all the water in my face. Not as much as Sadir though. Our guide thought he would have a joke on him and move him to the front where he got soaked!
There were a few hairy moments when, for example, we got stuck on a rock. I thought that was it - we´re all going in. The guide sorted the weight balance by moving a few of us and we managed to stay in the raft. My biggest fear of the trip was that I was going to be the moron that fell in and had to be rescued by the guides following in the kayaks. I wedged my feet firmly in the raft to avoid this!
After two hours rafting we got to use the saunas and hot showers which were well needed after the cold. Then lunch and back home. Top day out.

Another trip which obviously had to be done whilst in Peru was the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu. All I can say is thank God I only picked the two day trek because it was hard work. I would like to blame altitude for it being so difficult but I think I have had enough time to acclimatize now so it must be down to me being so unfit!
The trek was hard but obviously it was worth it. It´s incredible there. I don´t know whether I was more impressed by the views or the way the Inca´s lived and the things that they built.

As we were up at 4am (for the second day running) we managed to get on the list to climb Wyna Pichu. Only 400 people can climb a day and I was almost tempted to say no when I saw it. When we arrived at the Sun Gate the day before I thought the guy was joking when he pointed the mountain out because I was thinking there was no way I was going to make it up that. Anyway, I knew that I couldn´t go all that way, have the opportunity to climb it and not do it. I did it with this lovely Australian couple and an American girl also on my trip but I had to put my ipod in (glad I listened to Chloe for once) and not speak. It was quite funny walking up because everyone just looked shattered and sweaty and people had to keep stopping to catch their breath. Once we got to the top though it was all worth it and the views were amazing. By the time we got back down again it was lunch time so we headed back on the bus to our hostal and there was an all you could eat buffet - perfecto.

As I was going away for two days I decided it was best to say my good byes at the orphanage before the trip. It was really sad to leave the kids. They really are lovely. To think about how much they have gone through and the lives they have had, it´s remarkable how some of them have coped. I got a bit emotional leaving one of the boys behind - I seriously contemplated whether I could adopt him or not. He kept asking when I was coming back and it´s so hard to give an answer as obviously I can´t be sure and I don´t want to promise anything.
A few of us went out for lunch and then I said I wanted to get a cake for the kids as a leaving present. The boys found this hugeeeee tub of ice cream as well. We took it home and the kids got so excited. Afterwards we had a bit of a party. I love those moments when all the kids look so happy, dancing and being silly - doing what children should do. Unfortunately, there was a downside to the party which was that the night before one of the boys had escaped. I don´t think he will come back now to be honest. He´s one of the slightly older ones and has escaped many times. I just pray he manages to stay safe wherever he is.

Well my last day in Cusco is here. I am quite sad to leave to be honest. I feel settled here. Last night I stayed in a hostal in the plaza. Breakfast this morning was the perfect way to end my last day. Sat with a window view of the Plaza de Armas with the sun shining - que lindo.

Cusco y mis amigos aca - les extrañaré muchisimo.

emotional night

So yesterday was set to be a day and night in after partying the night before - free drinks are given in pretty much all the bars so I didn´t spend a single sol on drinks all night. Obviously the stuff is like paint stripper so yesterday was a feeling a bit rough. We decided to have a night in and some of the other volunteers and I were playing cards and having a good laugh. The boys had just gone to bed and it was clearly at this moment that seeing the empty bed they realised that one of the boys had escaped. In the panic of looking for him in the orphanage some of the other boys came back form school (they go to school at night) and they causally told us that 2 of the boys hadn´t come back with them. I immediately began to panic because Alex, 10 years old, who had escaped is still new and apparently had a problem with drugs and I was concerned that he might take something. He´s one of the most fragile looking boys, one of those that really makes me want to take him back with me.

Davis, one of the older boys thats in charge called Jeremy to let him know. This is quite a common thing for the childen to escape and want to go back on the streets. Jeremy always goes looking for them and brings them back but if they continue to do it they can often be kicked out of the home. Davis went to Jeremy´s house to go to another boy´s dorm where they thought he might be, a few others had a walk round near the orphanage and me, Fred and her sister got in a taxi and went straight to the Plaza in the centre of town - a hot spot with kids who know they can get money out of tourists who feel sorry for the children or guilty for spending so much money on restaurants and going out. When we got there as we had just got up and left we weren´t wrapped up as much as usual and it was soooo cold. I just couldn´t believe that these kids would prefer to be out in the freezing cold than at home in their warm beds. It soon became apparent that we had no clue where to look for them, I mean how were we ever going to think like a street child and know where they would go? Luckily, I got a call to say that they had the three of them and they were coming to pick us up.

It turned out that the three of them had planned the whole thing. Two of them hadn´t bothered to go to school and Alex had gone and met them. They had gone to the dorm to get 3 soles "to eat" as they had told the guy there. Jeremy sat them down and the whole thing was talked about, reasons as to why they had left had included for one, bullying by other boys (who were then woken up and made to apoligize), another claimed it was because he was bored, and Juan Carlos had clearly just gone with it for the adventure.

It was quite emotional the whole thing. At one point Fred walked off because she was starting to get upset, I followed her and said I felt exactly the same, which then set me off crying, and then her sister started! Gosh it was emotional. We didn´t go back to the room so the kids wouldn´t see us crying but we stayed close to listen. The boys were then told to come and apologize to us and they came and gave us big hugs and they were cyring a little bit which set the three of us off crying again. It was quite obvious that we have no idea what these kids have been through or what goes through their minds. To think that 10year olds would rather spend a night on the street, begging or whatever they would have done broke my heart. Jeremey says that it´s what most of these kids know and the attraction of the money is too much for some who don´t like the rules of the orphanage and want their independence. Obviously the begging only really works till their 13/14 because people don´t give money to older looking boys and this is went the stealing begins. However, this isn´t a good messgae for the other childen that they can come and go as they please and as Anderson, the ring leader of the adventure has already run off a few times he is now on his last warning. Only time will tell if he will stay or not.....

Que rico el alpacaaaaaaa

Yesterday a few of us went out to a village called Chinchero about 30mins in taxi away from Cuzo. We got out the taxi and we were literally the only tourists in this place. It was pretty funny coz we stuck out like a sore thumb - I felt like we had turned up to a party that we hadn´t been invited to. It was some religious fiesta and everyone was in really traditional dress and sat round having a few drinks and
there was music etc. We then went to find the ruins that this village is quite famous for but it was really expensive to get in and some French people walked past and told us it wasn´t worth paying that much money. We started walking away and suddenly some Peruvian woman came up to us and said that if we wanted to go to the ruins she would take us the back way. We asked if it was free and she replied yes but quickly followed with "well, you can give me a tip". She started taking us up these hills and my god the altitude was a killer. I definitely feel I can relate to asmathtics a lot more now. Anyway I was convinced we were probably being conned as we seemed to be walking to the middle of nowhere and she had asked us halfway to pay her. We did eventually get there and we ended up paying 6 soles each (about 1 pound 50) instead of 170 soles each! It was amazing inside as it was clearly where the festival began and everyone was again in traditional dress and dancing and bands playing. This combined with the mountain scenery was amazing. We were snapping away at every1 there and suddenyl realised we were being snapped as well, a group of kids even asked for a photo with us. Hahaha. We stayed there a few hours and then headed back in taxi again. Health and saftey is clearly not a big issue and we squeezed 4 in the back, this teamed with the way people drive here makes me have to grip the seat everytime I get in these taxis!


Well things at the orphanage are still going well but I continue to see problems with the way they run things there...or more...don´t run things! The boys are left to their own devices most of the day and I often catch them playing with matches, burning paper and even playing with knifes they have taken from the kitchen. If none of the volunteers are up in the morning to accompany the girls to school then they just go on there own. This involves two choices...1. Walking across a bridge which is having work done which means it is a high bridge with NO railings either side, so it´s prtty much a case of if you fall you will probably die or 2. they cross the really busy road. I mean some of the little ones are as young as 6 and they just run across the road all the time and judging by the fact that the drivers here are even worse than Spanish drivers it´s just really unsafe.

Tried Alpaca the other night and it was so tasty I had it again last night. Delicious. Fred wants us all to try Guinea Pig, another local dish...not so sure myself. Food is very cheap and most mornings we go to the local markets for breakfast which costs about 1pound for an egg sandiwch and a jug of juice. The juices are amazing here as well. Anyway better get going because I´m off to find the supermarket with Christine, the new American girl. She is absolutely hilarious. She studied Spanish as a minor for 3 years but doesn´t know a thing, she literally invents every word and the kids don´t have a clue what she is on about. She makes us all laugh so much. She will often say a whole line in English and then say one word in Spanish and wonder why Fred and her sister haven´t managed to understand. Daddy Yankee was on yesterday and she was like "oh I know this song...it´s from the Middle East."!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I made it!

Well where, to start?!? So after a longggg day travelling I finally made it to my first destination of Cuzco, Peru. As predicited I wasn´t met at the airport but it´s nothing that a quick phone call didn´t sort out. Jeremy, who runs the orphanage picked me up and gave me a quick tour in his car of Cuzco centre. It is beautiful and I wanted to get out there and then and explore. However, we went to the orphanage so I could meet everyone. I dumped my bags and went to meet the owner Nilda who is Jeremy´s Mum. We introduced ourselves and then I was told to grab a chair and sit with the kids. I was chatting away for a while but it soon became obvious that if I wanted any information about the orphanage it was up to me to ask beause it was clearly not going to be offered. I went and asked her about their routine and what kind of things she would like me to do with the kids, what was expected of me etc. but this was met with a very relaxed attitude about how I can do what I want, when I want. This wasn´t really the answer I was expecting so went to find the other volunteers who pretty much confirmed this - you can come and go as you please and spend time with the kids as you wish. This was totally unexpected to be honest.

The kids are absolutely lovely and so affectionate, they greet you in the morning with a buenos dias and a kiss and at night they all come and give you a kiss before they go to bed. It´s heartbreaking sometimes though. The orphanage is ok but needs a good clean and a lick of paint. Hygiene is not high on the list and I don´t really get who cleans the bathrooms etc. because the boys one absolutely stinks and no one seems to be doing anything about it. To add to it, this is in the small courtyard where they have lunch and it´s horrible sometimes. I think my lowest point so far (on my second day!) was watching a 6 yr old hand wash his own clothes in a bowl of freezing cold water. I started to help him and there were solied underpants in there and was making the water dirty and mixing with the clothes he´d already cleaned.

The girls go to school in the morning and the boys in the afternoon but there is no where near enough structure to there day. I came down this morning to find the boys just all sat there on their own left to their own devices. There are no proper adults there either and as volunteers as we have not actually been offered much advice or information it´s hard for us to know what time to send them to bed or whether they shoudl be doing their homework or not. Some get on with their work themselves but get so distracted as there is no proper study space and there are only two small desks anyway. There is one adult who stays over night called Esther but she goes up with the girls and sleeps in their room. There are also 2/3 older boys who are about 20-21 who were brought up in the orphanage and live there - maybe they are in charge?? One positive thing is their solidarity and you can see how they are like one big family. Yesterday I saw how generous some of the kids are when me and Fred took some of them for a juice in the local market, which they love. They could have had all of the juice but instead some of them decided to save it and take home what was left for others back at the orphanage.

Yesterday I went to the centre of Cuzco for a bit, es muy linda. We went and got some food and then walked around a bit and went for a cocktail in a cool bar with beanbags. After a while though I started to feel guilty because it was so easy to forget about the orpanage and thinking about me having a drink whilst they were all back there just felt selfish. I think it´s going to be hard to get used to that.

Nearly time...

Well it's nearly time for me to leave. I'm not too nervous about going - I suppose I am used to leaving now! Hopefully I will fill this thing in as I go along, although I will probably start off well and then.....
I know the Sheffield girls will be particually looking forward to my blogs - they love my attention to detail. haha.
I can't wait to see what South America has to offer (especially the food! haha). Not looking forward to packing in the slightest, I mean let's face it, I struggle with a suitcase never mind a rucksack!